What We're Hoping to See at Watches & Wonders 2025
Will smaller cases and new records be the big news from Geneva?
What to Expect
Watches & Wonders will open its doors in Geneva in a few short days, and we will soon learn about the latest creations from the world’s most esteemed watchmakers, from Rolex and Patek Philippe, as well as some of the industry's most lauded independent makers. Until then, here's what we're looking forward to seeing at Watches & Wonders.
Rolex
Without a doubt, the brand that everyone is paying attention to at Watches & Wonders is Rolex, and it makes sense, given the phenomenal appeal of the watchmaker. What makes Rolex's upcoming 2025 collection even more tantalising is that, in recent years, the brand has travelled down some unexpected paths, creating timepieces that fans definitely did not see coming. Add to this the fact that 2025 marks 120 years since the founding of the brand, and we're hopeful for some big news from the Crown.
Patek Philippe
Late last year, Patek Philippe debuted the Cubitus, the brand's first new collection in 25 years, and the square design had everybody talking. So the question everyone's asking is: how will Patek Philippe follow up on this launch? Will we see the brand release more designs in the Cubitus collection, or will they focus on a completely different part of their catalogue - perhaps Grand Complications or Rare Handcrafts pieces? We don't really know, but if we're completely honest, it's the anticipation that's most exciting.
Record Breakers
Few things get watch people talking quite so much as a new record in watchmaking. Over the last few years, a handful of brands have been vying with one another for the mantle of the world's thinnest watch — and it's been a game of horological one-upping that's been exciting to watch. As if that wasn't enough, there's always a slowly bubbling competition for the title of 'most complicated', where brands will demonstrate their skill and prowess by packing as many complications in a watch case as possible. Currently, this title is held by Vacheron Constantin's pocket watch, known as the Berkley Grand Complication, which has an incredible 63 complications. Perhaps this year, we'll see 64?
Stones, Shapes and Smaller Sizes
Watches & Wonders is also an excellent place to see exactly what's trending in watches, thanks to all the year's hottest watches being under the same roof. Based on what's been popular over the last 12 months, we'd expect to see a healthy representation of semi-precious stone dials like malachite and turquoise, a focus on unconventional case shapes, as part of a wider interest in design-driven watches and last, but not least, a continued focus on smaller watch sizes, as part of a broader industry adoption of the 'tiny watch' trend. Now, that's not to say that we're expecting Panerai and Hublot to stop doing what they do best, but we think it's reasonable to expect watches aimed at men offered in cases smaller than 39mm and watches made for women powered by more prestigious calibres.