The most hotly anticipated (and debated) watch of Watches & Wonders 2025 is the Rolex Land-Dweller. Not only does the integrated bracelet design — inspired by the historic 'Oysterquartz' case — represent a brand new collection for the brand, but the calibre inside represents the start of a whole new chapter in Rolex's watchmaking story. The Calibre 7135 is something completely new. The movement replaces the traditional Swiss lever escapement and opts for something much more precise — a direct lever escapement that Rolex is calling Dynapulse, made possible on an industrial scale thanks to Rolex's expertise with silicon. The movement alone is protected by 16 patents and is the result of a decade of research and development. On its own, the Rolex Land-Dweller is an impressive achievement, but it's just the beginning of a new era of precision for the brand.

It only feels appropriate that Hublot's Big Bang is one of the biggest watches of the fair. After all, the groundbreaking collection celebrates its 20th anniversary in 2025. And it celebrates in style. The brand is offering several themed sets of its most iconic case and one of the standouts is the 'Master of Sapphire' set, five watches all in the updated Meca-10 configuration is impressive enough, but case them all in varying shades of vibrant sapphire and it's clear that Hublot knows how to get the 20th-anniversary party started.